A New Generation of Nomad or Simply an Escape Artist?

Author: Lee-Anne Dawson

 

According to the Oxford Dictionary of English, a nomad is a member of a people that travels from place to place to find fresh pasture for its animals and has no permanent home; a person who does not stay long in the same place, a wanderer.  As I get older, I feel the need to move on to new places more frequently.  After a time, I start to feel like I do not belong in a specific place anymore and feel compelled to embark on another journey.  Nomadism for me has become a sort of lifestyle that I find harder and harder to resist the more I move around.  Not only am I nomadic when it comes to living environment, but also linguistically.  I love to learn about different cultures and the histories of distant peoples and try to do so by learning new languages.  The more I travel, the more bits and pieces of languages I pick up, but with all the moving around and all the new interests that come along with that, I no longer dedicate time to actually mastering them.  As for the Oxford Dictionary's definition, I seem to only fit into the secondary definition since whatever pets I have had in Toronto or overseas have not accompanied me in my travels. 

 

I honestly do not know where it came from, my desire to travel the world.  I was very young when I traveled on my own for the first time, just fifteen years old, and I knew nothing about the world.  I do not think that it was even a curiosity about experiencing new cultures and visiting places unknown to me that drew me, I think it was the sense of freedom.  No pressures from anyone and no obligations.  I was finally going to experience something totally new and on my own terms.  This first trip took me to Weimar, Germany.  I had been studying German in high school and there was an opportunity to take an immersion course during the summer and somehow I had convinced my parents to let me go.  Two things stand out to me when I think back on that experience.  One was that I met the very first friend I ever truly loved.  It seems an odd concept, even to me, but I think part of it was that we met under circumstances wholly built on my own terms.  I had not known her since before I could remember, I did not meet her at the church my family went to, nor the school I was enrolled in and this to me was new and refreshing.  She was the first person I truly felt like myself with.  And the second thing that I remember about that trip was having my first life experience where I felt like I stood out (in a negative way) because of my skin.  Even though back home, the majority of the kids I went to school with and to church with were white, there were still speckles of other colours around.  I remember standing at the bus stop in the centre of Weimar and being stared at from afar.  I shrugged it off, but the moment that really impressed this awkward feeling on me was when I met a black student who had been studying in Weimar for some time and he immediately began to speak to me and he spoke to me in English.  And every time I saw him or his friends around town, they always used to say hello to me.  We did not really know each other, but we had formed a sort of silent solidarity. 

 

The next summer I traveled to India with my parents.  I had been to India twice before, first at the age of three and again when I was ten, but this was trip marked the time in my life when I finally started to pay attention to and appreciate my Indian heritage.  My parents are not the story-telling type, so if there was anything I wanted to know about our family background, it was like pulling teeth to get information from them (not much has changed).  This was a phenomenal milestone for me because this was when I fell in love with Indian food!  I could not stand it before.  But more importantly, I witnessed what my life would have been like if my parents had not immigrated to Canada.  I met a lot of family members that I never knew before and enjoyed the beauty of that tropical environment. 

 

Then when I was in my final year of high school, another opportunity arose for me to explore the world on my own.  I participated in an international co-op program which took me to Paraguay in South America.  I worked in the southern city of Pilar as an English teacher for four months at an elementary school.  This trip definitely had a huge impact on my life.  Prior to leaving for Paraguay, I had zero interest in learning Spanish at all.  I had been studying French and German and I thought that that was enough for me.  But of course, before we left, we received some basic language training.  What I did not expect was that once I got to Paraguay, that I would pick up the language so quickly and that I would fall in love with it.  This was the moment that I realized that I had been translating my whole life.  There was another foreign student working in Pilar and I was often called on to help her communicate with her host family or the teachers at the school.  It was then that I realized that during my whole life I had been "translating" conversations between my parents or between my parents and others.  My experience in Pilar caused me to change my course of study in university the following fall from International Relations to French Language and Linguistics. 

 

During my third year of university, in 2002, my aunt started working in Afghanistan as a part of the relief efforts there post 9/11.  She planted a seed in my mind at the time that would lead me to Kabul after graduation.  She had mentioned that I should consider going out there to see what the world of development was like and once I graduated, I was eager to go.  So once I saved up enough money for a plane ticket, I was on my way.  When I arrived in Kabul, I immediately met a group of amazing and like-minded young people who were there to try and make a difference.  I immediately hired a Dari (the Afghan dialect of Farsi) teacher to make good use of my time while I was looking for work.  After a few weeks I started working at a UN agency as a Programme Support Officer in the big UN compound on the east-end of the city.  But I longed to do something more hands on and eventually gained a post as Communications Officer on a Customs and Trade project.  This position took me to a small office within the Ministry of Finance working on communications initiatives for the Afghan Customs Department.  This was definitely an eye-opening experience.  It was rewarding and frustrating all at the same time.  It was an honour to be a part of rebuilding a country, doing my small part, but also frustrating to see how the constant politicking within the ministry and also between the government and the development agencies caused work to progress at such a slow pace.  And although Afghanistan may not seem like a romantic place, I met my life partner there.  But after a year and a half of living and working in Kabul, I was ready to come home.  Or so I thought. 

 

The first six months I spent back in Toronto, back "at home" were awful.  I went from working 12-14 hour days, six days a week, to sitting around at my parents' home in the suburbs with no means of escape.  No car, no internet, no connection to the outside world.  I was living on what I called Dawson Island.  I had experienced what is called reverse culture shock before, but never so badly as this.  To be honest, I do not think I have recovered from it yet, more than a year later.  What keeps me here and what keeps me going is the goal I have set for myself in completing my graduate degree. 

 

Working in Afghanistan created in me a deep interest in the history of Asia and Asian cultures in general.  And having had the opportunity to travel extensively in the region while working there only deepened that interest for me.  And so I am already making plans for my next move.  I am hoping to do some research work in Indonesia next year; this is where my partner is currently working.  And with the cold weather invading Toronto now, I am drawn to that equatorial country on the other side of the globe.  I look forward to the new experiences and the things that I will learn and the new relationships that will form across languages and cultures.  What comforts me is that I already have a plane ticket booked and so all I have to do is count down the days until I will take off again.  Just knowing that my nomadic journey will continue puts me at peace and it makes me feel like myself. 

 


 

The Kuchi Nomads of Afghanistan

 

The Kuchi people of Afghanistan are a nomadic people.  The majority of Kuchi belong to either the Pashtun or Baluch tribes.  Due to 30 years of war, followed by severe drought, these people and their way of life are in danger of disappearing.  Today you can see Kuchi tents set up on the outskirts of Kabul.  For many, the few livestock they have are not enough to sustain them monetarily or physically and so they camp near the capital city in hopes of finding some temporary work that will pay for their journey to their summer pastures.